No Water, No Action

Well, the snow is gone, the skeeters are back and the annual garden-athon has begun. Many backyard gardeners have begun to heed the advice that making compost for their own use is a winning proposition for themselves and their local landfill. People learning to compost on the prairies have a particular challenge to overcome that is not well discussed in the information that comes from wetter climates. We have to learn to add water on a regular basis.

Dry, Dry, Dry  A tour down back alleys in most Saskatchewan communities reveals piles and bins full of dry leaves, grass and food scraps that are frozen in time. They don't change over months or sometimes even years. These materials are in suspended animation because they are dry. Composting is a process that is driven by microscopic critters - mostly bacteria and fungi. They cannot function in a dry environment. Bacteria and fungi have no mouths. They send special chemicals called enzymes outside their tiny bodies to break down the food into simpler molecules, like sugars, that can be absorbed through their cell walls. Water is required for this "magical" process to occur.

How Much?  The composting process goes well when the materials are about as moist as a damp sponge, which is about 50% moisture in technical terms. If you pick up a handful of compost and squeeze, only a drop or two of moisture should emerge. The composting materials, if they are past the first stage of breakdown, will be moulded by your squeeze and hold the cylindrical shape when you open your palm. In the case of composting and water, more is not better. Adding too much water will fill up all the air spaces. The bacteria and fungi that you want in your compost pile need air. Too much water will lead to a cold and smelly compost pile.

Water Quality  All water is not created equal when it comes to composting. Remember, chlorine is added to drinking water to limit microbial growth. Rainwater is the best choice, so having a rain barrel is a great advantage for the home composter. Chlorinated tap water can be "fixed" by leaving it in a pail to off-gas for a few hours before it is added. Some of the chlorine is lost when water is sprayed through a sprinkler, so an easy way to add water regularly is to position a pile or open bin where it is in the path of regular garden watering. Chlorinated water straight from the hose isn't optimum but it is a great deal better than no water at all.

Adding Water  Part of learning how to compost is developing the habit of checking the moisture level of the materials in the pile or bin and adding water as needed. Rewetting a completely dried out pile can take patience. Water tends to run right through and leave the materials high and dry. In such a case, adding some soil and new "juicy" materials, like food scraps or grass clippings, can help hold the moisture in the pile. When rewetting, it works best to add the needed moisture a few litres at a time over a couple of days, until the desired moisture level is reached. A watering can or a hose with a gentle spray attachment are good ways to deliver the water.

Keeping a Lid on It  Books or articles about composting often recommend compost bins with lids to avoid problems with excess water. In this part of the world, lids tend to be used for the opposite reason - to reduce evaporation. A lidded bin with moderate sized holes for aeration is our best bet. Evaporation losses in compost piles can be reduced by loosely covering them with tarps that are secured with rocks, lumber or other suitable weights.

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